Nuestro desayuno favorito lugar

As we were having breakfast yesterday, I told the owners of El Alto I was going to blog about their little restaurant.  El Alto is on the main highway and just south of where we live.  You seldom see gingros there and they speak no English.

El Alto Menu

It’s open for breakfast but their main business is rotisserie chicken and tipico platters sold later in the day.  We are frequently the only customers when we go about 8:30 AM.  But, if there are other customers or as new ones come in, we greet each other like long lost friends.

Reina

Reina

The two women working there, Angelina and Reina, smile as we stumble through our orders of “dos huevos revueltos con vegetales, no tocino o jamon y café con leche”.  We get a simple tipico platter of eggs, vegetables, toast and coffee. Angelina knows to bring us the hot sauce, which is homemade and excellent. The first time we asked for potatoes, they looked at us like we had two heads.  Panamanians do not eat home fries.

el alto 3They have a simple menu for almuerzo and cena also. All of this good food comes from a tiny kitchen in the back.

There are many other breakfast places in town and we go to them on occasion.  But nothing beats the down-home simplicity of El Alto.

 

For our El Alto friends:

Como estábamos desayunando ayer, les dije a los dueños de El Alto que iba a blog acerca de su pequeño restaurante. El Alto está en la carretera principal y justo al sur de donde vivimos. Rara vez se ve gingros allí y no hablen Inglés .

Está abierto para el desayuno, pero su actividad principal es el pollo asado y platos tipico vendidos más tarde en el día . Somos con frecuencia los únicos clientes cuando vamos a las 8:30 AM . Pero , si hay otros clientes o como uno nuevo entra dentro , nos saludamos como tiempo perdido amigos .

Las dos mujeres que trabajan allí , Angelina y Reina , sonríen a medida que tropezamos a través de nuestras órdenes de ” dos huevos revueltos estafa Vegetales , sin tocino o jamón y café con leche ” . Tenemos un sencillo plato tipico de huevos , verduras, pan tostado y café. Angelina sabe para traernos la salsa caliente, que es casera y excelente. La primera vez que les pedimos patatas , que nos miraba como si tuviera dos cabezas . Los panameños no comen patatas fritas caseras .

Tienen un menú sencillo para Almuerzo y Cena también . Toda esta buena comida viene de una pequeña cocina en la parte trasera .

Hay muchos otros lugares para desayunar en la ciudad y que van a ellos en alguna ocasión. Pero no hay nada como la simplicidad del abajo-hogar de El Alto.

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The Price of Living in Boquete

Anyone would find it difficult to find a more beautiful place to live than this small town in western Panama. Fresh air, green, cool temperatures, picturesque mountains and a dormant volcano. It’s about an hour to the beach and less to ‘city’ shopping. In less than 2 hours by car, you can visit Costa Rica. A 45 minute plane ride brings you to an international airport and the rest of the world.

In the last 2 weeks, we have seen 2 different groups coming through Boquete on an organized sales tour. Their objective was to sell their victims clients land in Boquete. If we saw two groups, there were probably several more that we did not see. We were at the same restaurant as one of the tour groups so we could overhear what the participants were being told. Long story short – America is going down hill fast, everyone speaks Spanish and Boquete is a cheap place to leave it all behind. What did the tour group organizers leave out?

Boquete isn’t the cheap oasis you hear about. Housing is expensive and buying is often more costly than a similar home in my hometown of Coral Springs, Florida. People will tell you that you can buy a two bedroom house for $50,000 and you can live very well on Social Security or less. You can, if you want:
to live in a Panamanian home**
to live far from an established town

A low cost typical Panamanian** home is small, maybe 500-600 sf. No king-sized bed. No couch/love seat/TV and tables in the living room. The kitchen will be one 4 foot counter that includes a two burner stove and dorm size refrigerator. stove

You will not have hot water in your sinks or screens on your windows. You will not have cable TV and probably not internet. This will run you about $200-300 mo. If you pay less, you may get a room with a shared toilet area. If you move up to the $400 range, you may get a suicide shower for hot water but not in the sinks. suicide shower This electric attachment on your showerhead, provides immediate hot water. All of this is completely dependent on how close you are to town. More people are renting in Boquete so availability of properties and the costs are rising significantly.

Other rental units are available and can run up to the $2000+ range. For this you get a gated community and all the amenities you would expect in an exclusive area in the States. They have golf, nice restaurants, club houses and full-time gardeners.

Cars cost about the same as in the States but gas is more expensive, about $4.17 for regular. Gas prices are determined by the government and currently is $1.08 per liter. Car insurance is about half what we paid in Florida. Many people rely on the bus and taxis. Both are cheap and available unless you live on the outskirts where availability is not terrific.

Food is cheaper and you will save about 1/3 on your grocery bill. Thankfully, there are no “fast food” restaurants in town so your menu will be healthier. Eating out can be cheap or pricey depending where you go. I’ve previously written about this.

Another expense that is never talked about is entertainment. What will you do with your time? There’s an enormous selection of activities. Visitors to Boquete go rafting, zip lining, kayaking, and renting ATVs. They run about $75+ for each activity. Eighteen holes of golf run about $80 and less for the 9 hole course. There are clubs and organizations for every interest. Most are run by expats and are free to very inexpensive and they are very grateful for your volunteering hours. You must drive to David to go to the movies and, unless you are fluent in Spanish, your selections are limited to the ones that have Spanish subtitles and audio in English. It costs about $2.50 and first run movies do come through.

And then there’s health care. It is good and much cheaper than in the US BUT it is not free. If you end up in the hospital for a few days, it gets expensive. Medicare is not accepted here and prescriptions are costly. Don Ray Williams has lived in Panama for ten years and recently wrote about this topic. http://www.chiriquichatter.net/blog/2013/07/18/a-caution-before-moving-to-panama/ We are lucky to have Tricare as David is retired from the Navy. That is not the rule.

Internet and cable are dicey depending on the provider available in the area you may live. Close to town, it is good and affordable. Further up the mountains it is best to check as those services quickly become expensive and/or unreliable.

These for-profit companies are doing their clients a huge disservice. Pressure to buy after just a few days is reckless at best. But they continue to write articles and people continue to believe. There are cheaper places to live in the States where services are available and there’s no communication barrier. These companies should be promoting a change in lifestyle. That would be honest but not as profitable. Panama reminds me of growing up in S. Florida in the 1950s. Children walk in the rain and don’t rely on mom’s mini-van. Most Panamanian kids don’t have cell phones and are not attached to Gameboys or other electronics. People, including children, make eye contact, greet and speak to you.

What they should be saying: Things are slower here – tranquilo. Repairs are seldom perfect but they are “good enough”. Road hazards mean that you must pay attention and change lanes to avoid it or wait, as there won’t be a half a mile of orange warning cones and blinkers. Watch where you are walking. Learn Spanish. This isn’t the US or Canada. Don’t expect water and electricity all the time. Manana doesn’t mean tomorrow, it means ‘maybe sometime in the future’. Many people only live here a few months a year, not full time. You can no more change a culture than move a mountain with a teaspoon.

The most popular advice from people who have actually lived here is—-Rent at least 6-12 months before buying. We’ve only lived here permanently for 3 months and have already seen new ‘permanent residents’ come, find a place to live and now they have already left.

I’ve also heard more than once that “if you need a group tour to escort you to a foreign country, expatriating may not be for you.” I don’t know if that’s true but the typical expat here is an extremely well traveled. They have been to London, Paris and Rome but have also been to Turkey, China and India. They are independent and fearless travelers who love to experience different cultures. Panama is safer than most of the US, but if you act like you just fell off the turnip truck, you will be scammed. And the biggest scammer very well may be your tour director who told you that you will live like royalty on your Social Security check.

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Blog Expat: living abroad

Eating out in Boquete

Much has been said about the variety and quality of restaurants here in Boquete. We eat out often so I will give you my opinion of many local restaurants. I cannot/will not give a bad review. Also, I do not eat beef or pork so you may find my reviews lacking in that regard. This list is only a sample of the dining options in Boquete.

Breakfast: I have a few favorites – Olga’s and El Alto are Panamanian. Olga’s is actually called Punta del Encuentra and is located behind Todo a Dolar. The menu is on a white board at the entrance. She serves pancakes and waffles, unusual for most restaurants here.
El AltoEl Alto is up past San Francisco next to Curvas Bonitas. They don’t speak any English but a short menu is posted. It’s definitely patronized by locals. The hojaldres are super. They serve lunch and dinner and are known for rotisserie chicken. We frequently find ourselves at Sugar and Spice. There’s a reason it takes tripadvisors’ No. 1 favorite spot. It is delicious and friendly. It is also open for lunch and has wonderful desserts, soup and sandwiches. Most newcomers go to Central Park and is a great place to people-watch. restaurant 2

Cafeteria style at  El Sobroson

Cafeteria style at
El Sobroson

For an authentic Panamanian experience, go to El Sobroson. There are two in town and are both cafeteria style. El Sobroson is so popular, there’s another branch at the Chiriquí Mall in David. The original is on the north side on Main Street and No. 3 is across from Central Park. Don’t be intimidated. Just point to what you want and enjoy. They are also open through dinner.

By lunch, everything is open. Baru is across from the park and has familiar, but tasty food. Nelvis and Las Orquideas are Panamanian and only open for lunch. Nelvis is behind Los Establos. There’s a white board menu in Spanish and English. You can’t beat their chicken dinner with two sides for $3.50. Las Orquideas is south of the park and has more variety, usually a chicken, pork and beef choice, always served with a smile. Big Daddy’s is right on Main Street and open for lunch and dinner. Their fish is right off the boat and served in a variety of tasty ways. They also have excellent margaritas to wash down a fish taco. You can sit on their patio overlooking the street or in the back under the trees. Mango’s is the newest restaurant in Boquete, opening just this week. It serves smoothies, salads, soup and pizza. It’s gotten nothing but positive comments from food and service to atmosphere. It is also open for breakfast and will soon add dinner hours.

For dinner, you can have everything from white linens to paper napkins. El Pianista is at the top of the Alto Lino loop. It’s charming located on a rushing stream and serves very good Italian. There’s a standard menu and daily specials.

George's FiresideA newcomer in Boquete is George’s Fireside, near the Boquete Garden Inn. It is very rustic and George continues to improve the building. His seafood is among the best in town. We had the stuffed sea bass and the coconut shrimp and both were fantastic. El Oasis, Panamonte and The Rock are popular for upscale dining. It’s romantic sitting by the fire at Panamonte’s with a drink on a cool night. The Fish House is across the street from Sugar and Spice and you can always depend on a great meal and good service in a cozy atmosphere. Around the corner is Mike’s Global Grill who has an eclectic menu and lots of live music. Further down the road is Amigo’s, a favorite hangout for locals. Macchu Pichu and Casona del Cuzco are Peruvian. Pisco sours at both are killer. La Posada is a large restaurant to handle the large crowds that come for their Argentinian grill and good pizza. Signs advertising special events are printed on banners seen as you come down the hill into town. Rico’s Pizza has moved to the San Francisco Plaza. They have tasty calzones and are now open for breakfast. An unusual tip, call Rico’s and they will have your takeout ready and deliver it to your car. Antojito’s Mexican serves good food in her carport on Main Street near Todo a Dolar. Go for the chimichangas or flautas. The Art Cafe serves crepes, both entrees and decadent desserts.

Dessert: Boquete just got it’s own gelato parlor. Turn at Boquete Bistro and it’s next to the tattoo parlor. Several of my new pounds can be directly attributed to frequent visits here. Sugar and Spice is open all day and has a fantastic variety of cakes, pies, muffins and cookies. Have a cup of coffee and watch the city go by as you enjoy these treats on their patio. La Cieba is between the park and the bridge and will definitely soothe a sweet tooth.

Again, this isn’t even close to the number of places to eat and drink. But we plan to sample them all until the waistline explodes.restaurant 1

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David, like a Local

Today we trucked down to David again. We had some legal things to do before our landlady leaves for the US so we used the opportunity to meet Kris and her spousal unit for lunch.
They took us on a short walk around their neighborhood where we came face to face with a poison dart frog. My Iphone did not do the colors justice, but the blue was intense.
dart frog2
After a great lunch, we went to the marina area of Pedregal. You have to know that it’s a good place since they have the official cat to greet you and buzzards in the back.
buzzards

The fish is fresh and pretty inexpensive. We got to sea bass for $2.50 lb and got them filleted while we watched. And 2 lbs of shrimp just because we love shrimp.
fish market menu

Top it off with meeting Dave and Judy, watching TV and potato soup for dinner on a rainy evening, we had another great day.

Shopping, shopping, shopping

Today was the dreaded day to shop in David. Although it’s only about 45 minutes away (plus the slow detour through Delega), a lot of people from Boquete regard this needed trip like they are going to a funeral. Not a sad funeral of a dearly departed friend, but one that must be attended to be civil. Trips to David are necessary to get all the picky stuff not available locally.

Like a gas grill. To women, this is a neat apparatus that means that men are doing the cooking. To men, it is a symbol of their manhood. Like the size of their chain saw or biceps. So we went to Novey, Do It Center, and PriceMart to compare sizes and prices. Phone calls between other men were involved. After about an hour, we became the proud owners of a grill which is still in several pieces in the carport.
grill
But we also needed spices, gardening equipment, bathroom stuff, a rice cooker, food processer – a list of stuff that took up a legal size sheet of paper and then some. But in David, all things are possible and our list is checked off. Hours in the aisles of PriceMart, Arocha, Melo, Conways, Do It Center, Reys, and when all else fails, Super Baru eventually leads to success.

With our stocked pantry, we decided to go to a fairly new place in town for dinner, George’s. Rustic is being kind describing this building. The food is fabulous. So if you’re are reading this and find yourself in Boquete, do your tastebuds a favor. I had seabass and David had Coconut Shrimp. It’s just north of Boquete Garden Inn. We ate with a couple we met on our last trip. They’ve been here for 6 years and seem to know everything. Knowledge envy to the max.